Health Check: Proper Care and Examination of Rabbits

Often, owners report that their rabbits were found “suddenly dead in the enclosure.” In most cases, these deaths were preceded by subtle signs of illness (quieter behavior, withdrawal, reduced or absent food intake, increased water consumption, etc.) and could have been prevented with timely examination and treatment.

Rabbits require regular care to stay healthy and to detect abnormalities or signs of illness at an early stage. Owners who keep their rabbits free-roaming indoors or closely integrated into daily life usually notice changes much sooner than those who only feed and clean them and rarely observe or handle them.

Daily Quick Check

Rabbits should be deliberately observed once a day, ideally twice a day—for example during feeding. For meat rabbits, it is now mandatory to check their health at least twice daily. We strongly recommend doing the same for pet rabbits. Offering a treat or food twice a day makes it easy to see whether a rabbit is refusing food. In addition, their movement and activity levels should be observed in the morning and evening. Feces and urine should also be checked:

  • Eating behavior: Are all rabbits eating normally? Do they come to feeding as usual?
  • Behavior: Are all rabbits behaving as they normally do? Changes are often signs of illness. Is one rabbit being bullied (often a sign of illness) or showing aggression (possible pain)?
  • Feces and urine: Mushy stool, diarrhea, very small or hard droppings? Urination and urine appearance (if observable) – basic feces and urine assessment.

Weekly Health Check (Rabbit “MOT”)

Especially when rabbits are not closely integrated into the owner’s daily life, it is advisable to carry out a thorough check of all rabbits once a week, or at least twice a month, and to take sufficient time for this. All of the points listed below should be checked, with particular attention to an underside inspection (anal/genital area!), nail care, weight monitoring, and a general health assessment.

As part of the general health check, all signs of illness should be ruled out, and owners should learn to recognize and assess early symptoms of disease. If a rabbit is known to be prone to a specific condition, it should, of course, be checked more frequently for that issue.

Weight Monitoring

Even if rabbits appear healthy, it is advisable to weigh them weekly or at least once or twice a month and record the weight in a log. This allows comparison with the normal weight in case of illness, as many diseases are first noticed through weight loss. Keep in mind that weight gain in autumn (winter fat) and weight loss in spring are completely normal. Weighing should always be done at the same time of day (e.g. before the evening feed), as food in the digestive tract accounts for about 80 g.

With very close observation and frequent contact with the rabbits (e.g. free-roaming indoor housing), regular weighing is not strictly necessary.

Weight gain requires an adjustment of the diet unless the rabbit is underweight or still growing.

Weight loss should be monitored by repeated weighing over the following days. If the loss is confirmed, the rabbit should be taken to a veterinarian.

Weighing is easiest when a non-slip surface (carpet, mat, etc.) and some favorite food are placed on a baby scale so the rabbit hops on voluntarily and without stress. A baby scale is ideal for this purpose.

Nail Care

Rabbit nails grow continuously throughout their lives. In the wild, they are naturally worn down by running on stones and digging. In pet housing, however, rabbits often live on soft or smooth surfaces and/or do not move enough. For this reason, nails must be checked and trimmed regularly.

Overgrown nails are painful, impair movement, can tear off (extremely painful), split, twist, and/or grow into the foot. Inadequate nail care constitutes serious neglect of the animal.

Rabbit nails contain a blood vessel and nerve (the quick), which must not be cut. A veterinarian or experienced rabbit keepers can show how to trim nails correctly.

Regular nail trimming can often be avoided by placing rough stone or concrete slabs in central areas of the enclosure and by putting paving slabs on the floor of the digging box, allowing natural wear of the nails.

Coat Care and Molting

In healthy, short-haired rabbits, coat care is only necessary during the molting period.

Depending on how vital the animal is, molting may be barely noticeable, with the coat remaining smooth and glossy.

Some rabbits develop a very scruffy coat during molting, with many tufts of hair sticking out that can be easily plucked or brushed out. This can occur in sick, poorly nourished, or elderly rabbits, but also as a result of severe stress (bonding, veterinary visits, heat, etc.) or due to individual predisposition.

Loose, protruding hairs should then be removed regularly by plucking, stroking them out, or brushing, as ingestion can lead to hairballs or intestinal blockages, which can be life-threatening. A stripping brush is well suited for this purpose. In extreme cases, removing loose hair can result in bald patches with healthy skin underneath. Unlike scabby, sore, or altered skin, these bald spots are harmless.

When new hair starts to grow back, unusual coat patterns may appear. The hair grows back quickly. Bald patches can also occur during false pregnancies, when females pull out their own fur (which is very loose at that time) to use as nesting material.

Supportive feeding during molting can include sunflower seeds and other oil seeds, as well as large amounts of fresh greens.

Long-haired rabbits require regular trimming so that the coat does not restrict movement, obstruct vision, or become soiled. Mats must be cut out, as they are painful for the rabbit. Coat care is usually necessary at least once a month. When trimming and detangling, great care must be taken not to injure the animal with scissors.

Very good results have been achieved with stripping brushes, which rabbits generally tolerate well and may even enjoy. They effectively remove loose hair. For rabbits with extremely dense coats, a high-quality clipper is preferable to scissors: it is faster, more comfortable for the animal, and significantly reduces the risk of injury. Many clippers struggle with rabbit fur; investing in a suitable model is therefore worthwhile. As a cheaper alternative, some low-cost clippers can also handle rabbit fur adequately.

Particularly in the genital area, the fur should be trimmed so it does not become dirty. Extreme care must be taken not to injure the genitals. This grooming is unpleasant for rabbits but absolutely necessary.

Regular coat care can be done on the ground inside the enclosure, which is less stressful. Covering the rabbit’s head with a cloth or hand so it cannot see often causes it to remain still. Many rabbits try to move backward, so a hand or object should be placed behind them. Offering favorite food and using a small enclosure during brushing can help avoid stressful lifting. Another option is to create a narrow passage with brushing edges so rabbits are gently and stress-free freed of loose hair as they pass through. For extensive grooming, the rabbit can be picked up or placed in a box.

During grooming, always check for wounds, abrasions, bald patches, scabs, crusts, dandruff, or other signs of disease or parasites.

To prevent hairballs during molting, rabbits should receive a diet rich in fresh greens (unlimited greens day and night as the main food), combined with well-soaked psyllium husks, linseed cake, or sunflower seeds. Soak 1 teaspoon (5 g) in 100 ml of water overnight and feed 1–3 teaspoons per rabbit, for example mixed with grated carrot. Any leftovers can be frozen in ice cube trays and thawed as needed.