This is how you create the perfect enclosure for disabled and elderly rabbits.

Enclosures for Rabbits with Disabilities – Tips for a Needs-Based Design

Rabbits with disabilities — meaning those with physical limitations such as paralysis, blindness, amputations, or age-related issues — require special consideration when designing their enclosure. A properly adapted environment can make a decisive difference in ensuring that, despite their disabilities, these animals enjoy a safe, fulfilling life that respects their natural behavior.

A cute rabbit resting inside a wooden outdoor hutch with bedding and accessories, ideal for rabbit care and enclosure setup.
Senior rabbits have special needs.

Mobility Impairments: Designing an Adapted Enclosure

A well-designed enclosure allows a disabled rabbit to move around independently and safely, without constantly relying on the caregiver’s help. The following measures are especially important to achieve this:

Floor Design

A soft, non-slip floor is essential, as rabbits with disabilities may struggle to walk or jump. Carpets help prevent slipping and injuries. Blankets can be secured with rug grippers or weighted down with stones in the corners; often, placing them under furniture or using carpets with a rubber backing is enough. It’s important that the carpets are washable and small enough to fit in a washing machine.

The Right Flooring for Paralyzed or Bedridden Rabbits

Rabbit lying on grass in a fenced enclosure.
Care is demanding because the rabbits urinate and defecate all the time.

Important: A particularly difficult situation arises when rabbits can no longer move and remain lying in the same spot. This condition must never become permanent. Sadly, some people still allow their animals to “survive” like this for far too long.

When a rabbit can no longer move on its own, its quality of life is severely diminished. It’s crucial to determine exactly which illness is causing the condition. If it cannot be treated, the most compassionate decision is to help the animal pass peacefully. As hard as this may be for the caregiver, it would not be fair to keep an animal alive that can no longer live in a way consistent with its species.

If the illness is treatable, the situation demands a great deal of effort, time, and care from the owner. Anyone unable or unwilling to take on that responsibility should also choose to let the animal go — otherwise, it will suffer from sores, poor hygiene, and an overall decline in well-being.

Soft Base Layer

Since these animals spend long periods lying in the same position, they can develop pressure sores if the ground is too hard. To prevent this, it’s essential to provide a soft, well-padded surface. Suitable options include:

Beautiful white rabbit with black markings, ideal for learning how to care for rabbits.
If the rabbit falls over, make sure it can’t injure its eyes on the bedding.
  • Dog beds: Washable, waterproof, and generally soft (depending on the model), making them an excellent base. Synthetic leather beds with low edges are particularly suitable.
  • Thick carpets: Also usable, though they are harder to clean and often need to be replaced afterward.
  • Vetbeds: These allow urine to drain through easily, keeping the surface drier.
  • Thick layer of hay, straw, or wood shavings: These materials can also create a comfortable floor covering.
  • Thin exercise mat: A good alternative to soften the floor.
  • Natural grass: The ideal surface if available (watch out for fly larvae—using protective netting is recommended).
  • Old fabrics, mattresses, or cushions: Usable as long as they’re placed over a waterproof urine barrier, such as absorbent pads or incontinence protectors.

Absorbent Underlayer

A highly absorbent base is essential, as immobile rabbits urinate and defecate where they lie, causing waste to accumulate in one spot. The most suitable materials include:

  • Incontinence pads: Available at pharmacies, supermarkets, online retailers like Amazon, and veterinary clinics. They are disposable but create a significant amount of waste. To prevent slipping, place them on top of a non-slip mat. Puppy training pads can also be used.
  • Wood pellets or shavings: Effective as long as they’re covered with a soft top layer for comfort.

Waterproof or Urine-Repellent Top Layer

The top layer is especially important when a rabbit stays in the same spot most of the time. It must keep the animal dry, allow proper drainage of urine, provide traction to prevent slipping, and help avoid sores or skin irritation. On surfaces that offer good grip, even paralyzed rabbits can move a little on their own. This is key to reducing the risk of ulcers, preventing pressure wounds, and often eliminating the need for physiotherapy. Based on experience, natural grass provides the best results.

Recommended materials:

  • Vetbeds: Repel urine and let liquid drain through, keeping the surface dry and the rabbit comfortable. They’re washable and easy to reuse.
  • Thick carpets: Also effective since they provide traction and allow some drainage, keeping the surface relatively dry depending on the material. However, they’re difficult to wash and usually need to be discarded afterward.
  • Natural grass: The ideal surface. Even nearly paralyzed rabbits can move a bit on it because it offers good grip, drains urine quickly, and prevents moisture-related sores. For outdoor areas, the space should be roofed and protected with fly-proof mesh.
  • Hay: A valid alternative to grass or vetbeds, as long as it’s laid down in a thick, stable layer. It should be soft hay. Not recommended for rabbits that spin in circles, as they may injure their eyes.

Barrier-Free Access

Ramps, stairs, or raised platforms should be avoided, or built with a very gentle slope. Rabbits with disabilities often struggle to climb or maintain balance, so a fully ground-level enclosure is the safest option to prevent falls and accidents.

If elevated areas are included, they must have safety edges and wide, low-incline ramps for access. Ramps should also feature side rails or barriers to prevent falls.

When ramps are absolutely necessary, they should be as flat as possible and covered with a non-slip surface to make movement easier. Access to resting, feeding, and drinking areas should always be easy to reach, without obstacles or steep transitions.

Wooden rabbit hutch with cozy interior and natural greenery for rabbits.

Low and Wide Entrances

Houses or hiding spots should have wide, low openings so the rabbit can enter effortlessly. Elevated or narrow entrances should be avoided, as they can be difficult or even impossible for a disabled rabbit to use.

Cute baby rabbits in a secure hutch and nesting box for outdoor rabbit care. Proper housing for rabbit safety and comfort.

Spacious Environment

The enclosure should be large enough for the rabbit to move freely and comfortably without bumping into obstacles. Narrow corridors and hard-to-reach corners should be avoided to ensure easy, unrestricted movement.

Fresh greens and bunny feeding area, ideal for rabbit care and nutrition.

Rabbits in Wheelchairs?

Many cases of paralysis in rabbits are extremely painful, particularly those caused by spinal injuries. It’s often overlooked whether the condition causes pain, and people may rush to use a wheelchair to help the rabbit move. However, it’s important to remember that a rabbit is not a dog or a human. Rabbits move by hopping, and each hop involves spinal movement — meaning that if the spine is damaged, every attempt to move can cause severe pain.

Moreover, rabbits rarely show pain clearly, so they may appear fine while actually suffering. Unlike dogs, which live closely with us and can be placed in or out of a wheelchair for walks and rest, this isn’t practical for rabbits. A rabbit in a wheelchair cannot choose freely when to rest, stay still, or move.

Therefore, this issue must be approached with great caution and critical judgment, since very few people can be with the animal around the clock to put on or remove the wheelchair at the right times.

Adapting Resting and Sleeping Areas

Rabbits with disabilities need especially comfortable resting spots, as they often spend long periods lying down to conserve energy. These areas should be soft, warm, and easily accessible, without steps or barriers. Using padded bedding, fleece blankets, or vetbeds helps prevent pressure sores and provides comfort. The space should also be quiet, free from drafts, and located in a safe corner of the enclosure where the rabbit feels secure and undisturbed.

Healthy baby rabbit lying on hay and greens in a cozy cage.
Rabbits that tend to roll need, in addition to a non-slip surface, towel rolls on the sides (with a water bottle inside) to support themselves and move more easily.

Long resting periods and limited mobility can lead to pressure sores, just as in humans. For this reason, it’s essential to provide a soft surface that helps prevent wounds on the legs and ulcers on the skin.

Tips for Designing Rest Areas

Comfortable Sleeping Spots:
A soft, well-padded floor — such as blankets or special synthetic leather dog mattresses — helps relieve pressure on the rabbit’s joints and muscles. These materials should be cleaned regularly to maintain hygiene and comfort.
Recommendation: a flat synthetic leather dog mattress, a thin exercise mat, or a low-edged bed.

Easy Access:
Resting areas should be easily accessible. Low shelters or tunnels without high edges are ideal for rabbits with disabilities.

Safe Hiding Spaces:
Disabled rabbits also need places where they can hide and feel secure. These should be designed so the animal can enter and exit effortlessly — for example, with wide openings or open sides.

Observe Your Rabbits:
Pay attention to which spots they prefer and which they find difficult to use. Adjust the resting areas according to their behavior and needs to improve their comfort and well-being.

Adapting Feeding and Drinking Areas

Feeding should be easy and stress-free for rabbits with disabilities, allowing them to reach food and water comfortably without effort.

Cute white and brown rabbits sharing a meal outdoors in a garden setting using proper rabbit care.
Water and food must always be within the rabbit’s reach!

Low Bowls:
Use stable, shallow dishes for food and water so the rabbit can access them easily. Avoid tall or unstable containers, which may be uncomfortable or impossible for them to use. Bird feeders that attach to the enclosure bars can also work well — they’re stable and can be positioned at the perfect height.

All food and water areas should be at ground level, so the rabbit doesn’t need to stretch or jump. This makes access easier, especially for animals with limited mobility.

Easy Access:
Place feeders and water bowls so the rabbit can reach them from different angles. For rabbits with vision problems or paralysis on one side, it’s important to avoid setups that require awkward movements or complicated positioning to eat or drink.

Special Needs of Rabbits with Balance Problems (e.g., Caused by Encephalitozoon cuniculi – EC)

Rabbits suffering from balance disorders due to conditions such as Encephalitozoon cuniculi (EC) — which often causes rolling or tipping over — require a particularly safe and well-adapted environment. Their lack of stability makes it difficult for them to move safely or stay upright, so the proper setup of their enclosure is crucial to prevent injuries and reduce stress.

A cute rabbit hiding inside a cozy house with fresh greens and vegetables.

Adapted Feeding

Rabbits with a head tilt or balance issues often struggle to eat from regular bowls. Place food along the edges of the enclosure, scattered on the floor, or in wide, shallow dishes that are easy to reach. This way, the rabbit doesn’t need to stretch or strain to eat, allowing it to feed more comfortably and calmly.

Preventing Eye Injuries from Substrate

For rabbits that frequently fall or roll over, certain substrates can pose a risk, as particles may get into their eyes and cause irritation or injury. In these cases, it’s better to use a softer base such as vetbeds or special synthetic leather dog mattresses. These materials significantly reduce the risk of eye injuries and are much safer for rabbits with balance issues.

Wicker Bridges

Soft, makeshift rabbit tunnel with blankets and cushions for playful rabbit activity.

Wicker bridges and similar tunnels are ideal for rabbits with balance disorders. They provide stable shelters that the rabbit can lean against, and their covered, darker design creates a sense of safety and protection. They have no sharp edges and offer the rabbit a secure space to rest and feel calm.

Lateral Support with Rolled Towels

A good way to assist rabbits that frequently fall to one side is to place rolled-up towels or mats around them. You can also use a towel-wrapped bottle to provide additional support without restricting movement. This setup helps prevent injuries and repeated falls. The rabbit can move between the “corridors” created, and if it tips over, it can use the soft supports to push itself upright more easily.

Non-Slip Surface

To help rabbits that fall over regain their footing on their own, they need a stable, grippy surface. Vetbeds are an excellent choice because they don’t slide when the rabbit pushes off with its legs, providing a firm, secure base.

Barrier-Free Access
(See the previous section.)

Rabbit in cozy wooden enclosure, ideal for pet rabbit sheltering and comfort.

Special requirements for blind rabbits

Blind rabbits need a carefully arranged environment, since they can’t rely on vision and depend heavily on smell, hearing, and touch. A clear and stable setup in their enclosure is essential so they can move around safely and without stress.

Consistent layout: Don’t reorganize the enclosure often. Blind rabbits need a fixed arrangement of objects to orient themselves. Once they know the space well, they can navigate it confidently even without sight.

Scent markers: Blind rabbits use their sense of smell to locate food areas, resting spots, and shelters. Adding familiar scents to certain objects can make orientation easier.

Tactile guidance: Flat rugs or slightly raised edges can function as tactile pathways. These “touch corridors” help the rabbit find important areas like feeding spots and resting places.

Avoid hazards: Make sure there are no sharp edges, open steps, or other potential dangers. Anything they could bump into should be eliminated. Edges can be padded if the rabbit tends to run into them.

These adjustments allow blind rabbits to move safely and calmly in their enclosure and help them maintain an active, fulfilling life.

Housing adaptations for rabbits with an amputated limb

In some rabbits, even after recovery, the enclosure needs adjustments to prevent high jumps (which strain the joints and promote arthritis), paw injuries, and falls:

Ground-level access to the litter box is important when mobility is limited.
  • Secure all levels or platforms with walls and ramps so the rabbit doesn’t have to jump from a significant height.
  • Modify the flooring if needed to prevent pododermatitis in the limbs that carry extra weight. A good setup is hay on top of a thick layer of bedding, or dog mats, etc.
  • Some rabbits absolutely need non-slip flooring (rugs, bedding, grass, and similar surfaces).
Rabbit with an amputated hind leg on a second level, with a ramp and protective edging.

Entertainment and encouraging the rabbit to move more

Even if rabbits have mobility limitations, they still need activity and stimulation. Adapted activities and toys can help them stay active and mentally engaged.

Adapted toys: Use toys the rabbit can handle even while lying down or with limited mobility, such as lightweight balls, food-dispensing balls, or sniffing mats.

Gentle movement stimulation: Add elements that invite the rabbit to move with minimal effort, like low tunnels or boxes it can pass through comfortably. This encourages movement without overexertion.

Varied environment: Rearrange the enclosure or rotate toys from time to time to offer new stimuli and prevent boredom.

Rabbit playing with an interactive food puzzle, ideal for rabbit enrichment and mental stimulation.

Safety and risk prevention

A safe enclosure is essential for rabbits with disabilities, since their limitations increase the risk of injuries or dangerous situations.

Safe materials: Use only non-toxic, rabbit-safe materials. Make sure there are no sharp edges or cutting hazards in the enclosure. Keep in mind that rugs must not be chewed or ingested, as this can cause life-threatening intestinal blockages.

Stable elements: All items in the enclosure—houses, tunnels, food bowls—must be firmly positioned so they won’t shift if the rabbit leans on them.

Risk reduction: Remove obstacles the rabbit could trip over and secure any area where it could get stuck.

Properly setting up an enclosure for rabbits with disabilities requires extra attention and specific adaptations to meet their needs. With a well-planned, barrier-free space, comfortable resting areas, and easily accessible feeding points, you can ensure that even a rabbit with physical limitations can live a full and largely independent life. Always pay close attention to your rabbit’s individual needs and adjust the enclosure when necessary to maintain the best possible quality of life.

Senses of rabbits

Vision (visual perception)
Field of view

Due to their protruding, large eyes located on the sides of the head, rabbits have a very wide field of view. Unlike humans, they can perceive their surroundings almost all around them (365 degrees) when holding their heads up, which allows them to quickly detect predators both from the air and from the ground. They can therefore also see behind them.


Three-dimensional (binocular) vision is only possible at the front and back (about 10% in the front, 9% in the back). Over the forehead and directly in front of the nose there is a blind spot where rabbits cannot see. In this area, they rely on other senses (smell and touch). This is why rabbits first sniff and feel treats before tasting them.

Erect-eared and lop-eared rabbits comparison diagram for rabbit care and breed explanation.

However, spatial vision is restricted in albino rabbits (they have mostly one-dimensional vision and weak eyesight). In addition, they are extremely light-sensitive and should be kept in the shade. Studies on albino rats have shown that even low light intensities of 60 lux can cause long-term eye damage (phototoxic retinopathy). These animals already avoid stronger light intensities from 25 lux onward. Non-albino rabbits, however, tolerate high light intensities without harm, e.g. 1200 lux over several weeks. Some albinos suffer from nystagmus or exhibit scanning movements to better perceive their surroundings. Lop rabbits (with floppy ears) have a restricted field of view compared to upright-eared rabbits due to their hanging ears (see illustration).

Cute white rabbit with long ears, close-up.
Albino rabbits are limited in their spatial vision.

Day vision and color perception

Each animal species perceives its environment differently. To put ourselves in the place of our rabbits, it can be helpful to understand how they see the world.

Rabbits are farsighted (0.5–1 diopter), caused by a corneal curvature (astigmatism). They are especially good at detecting movement (at a distance), while nearby, motionless objects are seen poorly.

Fluffy white rabbit in a field of yellow flowers, perfect for learning how to care for and raise rabbits.
What does the world actually look like to rabbits?

Normally, animals (including humans) can constrict or dilate their pupils depending on the amount of incoming light. Rabbits, however, can hardly constrict their pupils, which makes them very light-sensitive as crepuscular animals. Under strong sunlight, their vision is significantly impaired.

The eye contains different types of receptor cells responsible for vision. Rods enable the perception of various shades of gray, while cones are responsible for color vision. Rabbits have S-cones, which allow them to perceive violet-blue light, and M-cones, which allow them to perceive green light. Unlike humans, they lack cones that detect red light. Therefore, rabbits—similar to humans with red-green color blindness—see red and green as the same shade.

Rabbits cannot distinguish between red and green and are slightly farsighted. However, they are extremely good at detecting movement.

Bunny rabbits eating blueberries outdoors in garden, cute and fluffy pet rabbits with fresh fruits for healthy diet.

Night vision

Rabbits are better able to orient themselves at dusk and in the dark than humans. Thanks to their large, dilated pupils and highly light-sensitive rods, they perceive their surroundings in low light as comparatively bright, which gives them good overall awareness. However, their ability to see details is limited.

Binocular night vision rabbit in natural habitat, wildlife photography, nighttime outdoor scene, illuminating a rabbit with infrared light, real-life animal behavior.

Hearing (acoustic perception)

Rabbits have excellent hearing. They can perceive sounds in a frequency range between 60 and 49,000 hertz, whereas humans can only hear between 20 and 20,000 hertz. This means rabbits can detect very high-pitched sounds that humans cannot perceive (ultrasound).

The auricle (outer ear) contributes significantly to a rabbit’s sound perception. It is freely movable and can be rotated toward the direction of a sound. Rabbits can rotate their auricles almost 360 degrees (in all directions), independently of head movement. Each ear can also be oriented independently.

Depending on ear shape, rabbits may be limited in their acoustic perception according to breed. Rabbits with particularly small or heavily furred ears perceive acoustic stimuli less well than large-eared rabbits.

Soft brown lop-eared rabbit sitting on soil with a blurred background.

The most problematic case is found in lop rabbits (floppy ears). Studies show that lops are extremely hard of hearing and, due to chronic ear infections—which occur in up to 80% of lops as a breed-specific issue—often even become deaf. (See Lop rabbit problems.)

Hearing tests for rabbits and ear infection comparison chart.

Smell (olfactory perception)

A cute rabbit lying on lush green grass outdoors.

Rabbits rely heavily on their sense of smell. With over 100 million olfactory cells, it is highly developed. Depending on the breed, their sense of smell is comparable to that of dogs (100–200 million) and pigs, and about five times stronger than that of humans. For humans, it is hard to imagine how orientation through smell can be as precise as it is for many animals. Considering that truffle pigs can detect truffles through a thick layer of soil, one can better grasp the extent of a rabbit’s olfactory abilities.

Taste (gustatory perception)

Rabbits, like humans, can perceive sweet, sour, bitter, and salty flavors. They have a particularly high tolerance for bitterness, which explains why they prefer especially bitter plants (e.g., dandelions). With around 17,000 taste buds (humans: 8,000–9,000; dogs: 1,700), rabbits have roughly twice as many as humans. This also explains why, as dietary specialists, they can detect subtle differences in food and selectively choose what they eat.

Rabbits first examine everything through their sensitive sense of smell before deciding to take a test bite. If the food is not suitable, they may spit it out again. This makes them very difficult to poison.

Rabbit eating houseplant in indoor setting, pet care, rabbit diet, house rabbit tips.

Touch (tactile perception)

For close-range orientation, rabbits rely on their whiskers (vibrissae) located at the sides of the nose and above the eyes. They also possess tactile corpuscles, particularly at the ends of their limbs. Each side of the body has about 17–23 whiskers, each measuring 3–7 cm in length. Unlike fur, vibrissae are not shed during the molting cycle.

Whiskers help rabbits perceive things hidden from their eyes, and they rely heavily on them for orientation. With their vibrissae, rabbits can not only select food but also judge distances, feel the ground, and even sense vibrations in the air. This allows them to assess their immediate surroundings—for example, whether they can pass through an opening—and provides excellent orientation in burrows, shelters, and in darkness. The whiskers above the eyes help detect objects that might otherwise injure the eye.

When touched, the movement of a whisker is transmitted to the blood-filled capsule at its base, where a nerve conveys the stimulus to the brain.

Cutting off whiskers means amputating an entire sensory organ and significantly impairs the animal. Under no circumstances should whiskers be trimmed or shortened when clipping the fur.

In Rex rabbits, whiskers are often strongly curled, shortened, deformed, or even absent. The absence of whiskers is classified as a form of torture breeding (Qualzucht) in Germany, and such breeding practices are prohibited.

Adorable rabbit peeking out from its hutch, showcasing perfect pet care and grooming tips.
Rex rabbit without vibrissae.

Sources include (among others):

Boback, Alfred W.; Das Wildkaninchen: (Oryctolagus cuniculus (Linné, 1758); 2., unveränd. Aufl.; Nachdr. der 1. Aufl., Wittenberg Lutherstadt, Ziemsen, 1970; Hohenwarsleben; Westarp-Wiss.-Verl.-Ges.; 2004; (Die neue Brehm-Bücherei; 415)

Engelhard, W. von et al (2014): Physiologie der Haustiere. Enke-Verlag, Stuttgart

Gormezano, I. N. Schneiderman, E. Deaux, and I. Fuentes (1962): Nictitating Membrane: Classical Conditioning and Extinction in the Albino Rabbit Science 138:33 – 34 [http://www.psychology.uiowa.edu/Faculty/Freeman/Gormezano_62.pdf, Stand 10.11.2019]

Heffner, H. (1980): Hearing in Glires: Domestic rabbit, cotton rat, feral house mouse, and kangaroo rat. J. Acoust. Soc. Am. 1980, 68(6), S. 1584-1599.

Hughes, A. (1971): A Schematic Eye For The Rabbit, Vision Res. Vol. 12, pp. 123-138. Pergamon Press

Kraft, R. (1976): Vergleichende Verhaltensstudien an Wild- und Hauskaninchen. Universität Erlangen, 1976. Diss

Leicht, W. H. (1979): Tiere der offenen Kulturlandschaft. Feldhase, Wildkaninchen. Heidelberg, Quelle und Meyer

Niethammer, F, Krapp, J.(2003): Handbuch der Säugetiere Europas. Hasenartige. Wiesbaden : Akademischer Verlags-Gesellschaft, Bd. 3/2

Juliusson, B. et al (1994): Complementary cone fields of the rabbit retina, in Investigative Ophthalmology 8c Visual Science, March 1994, Vol. 35, No. 3 [http://www.iovs.org/content/35/3/811.full.pdf Stand 10.11.2019]

Leicht, W. (1979): Tiere der offenen Kulturlandschaft, Heidelberg, Quelle und Meyer; Teil 1, Feldhase, Wildkaninchen; Ethologie einheimischer Säugetiere, 1

Loeffler, K., & Gäbel, G. (2015): Anatomie und Physiologie der Haustiere (Vol. 13). UTB.

Nachtsheim; In: Nachtsheim, H. u. H. Stengel (1977): Vom Wildtier zum Haustier. 3. Aufl. Verlag Paul Parey, Berlin und Hamburg

Schleif, O. (2001): Ein Beitrag zur tiergerechten Haltung der Ratte anhand der Literatur. Diss, Tierärztl. Hochsch. Hannover

Schlingmann F.; De Rijk SHLM.: Pereboom WJ.; Remie R.: „Avoidance“ as a behavioural parameter in the determination of distress amongst albino and pigmented rats at various light intensities. Animal Technol. 1993a; 44(2), 87-95.

Schlolaut, W. (Hrsg) in Zusammenarbeit mit Lange, K.; Das große Buch vom Kaninchen; 3., erw. Aufl.; Frankfurt am Main; DLG-Verl., 2003; 488 S.

Nover, A. (1955): Untersuchungen über die Funktion der Tränendrüse beim Kaninchen, in Graefe’s Archive for Clinical and Experimental Ophthalmology , Volume 156, Number 2

Walde, I. (2008): Augenheilkunde: Lehrbuch und Atlas Hund, Katze, Kaninchen und Meerschweinchen, 3. Auflage, Stuttgart

Wiesner, E. und Ribbeck, R. (2000): Lexikon der Veterinärmedizin. Stuttgart : Enke im Hippokrates Verlag GmbH.

Can Rabbits Wear Clothes?

Rabbits are very sensitive animals. They are put under stress when they are attracted. In addition, they can be seriously injured if they get caught on the clothing or try to get free.

Do Pet Rabbits Like to Swim?

Yes, rabbits can swim! But they suffer when they are simply put into the water and are afraid of drowning. Who wants to fight for their lives for minutes without being able to stand or go to the shore? Nobody! Neither does your rabbit!
Please pass on this information! Too often you see rabbits swimming on Instagram.
The only exception can be a medical indication.

If your rabbit has soiled bottoms, you can clean a rabbit’s bottom by gently holding it over a bowl or sink and wetting and washing its dirty areas.

Don´t bathe your rabbit!

Unless your rabbit has a disease, it does NOT need to be bathed. If your rabbit has soiled bottoms, you can clean a rabbit’s bottom by gently holding it over a bowl or sink and wetting and washing its dirty areas.
Rabbits are like cats, they groom themselves to stay clean. Never immerse them in water! Rabbits can easily die from shock and hypothermia, they dry out slowly and it can lead to bladder infections, pneumonia and other serious illnesses. The ordeal of bathing puts them under extreme stress. They can injure themselves when slipping or kicking. The rabbit in this well-known internet picture, supposedly relaxed in the water, has been put into a trance. This is a state in which the rabbit goes into temporary paralysis, trancing is a reaction from the wild. If a rabbit is attacked but has no means of escape, it will play dead. This rabbit is incapable of action and is afraid for its life!
Share and spread the word!

New RHDv-2 Variant in France

In the past, RHD mutated to such an extent that the vaccines no longer worked against it and new vaccines were developed. This variant was called RHDv-2 and has been successfully vaccinated for several years.

In the north of France and other parts of Europe, a particularly contagious variant of RHDv-2 has appeared in recent months, against which the RHD2 vaccine (Eravac, Filavac, Nobivac Myxo-RHD PLUS) does not seem to be sufficiently effective. Unfortunately, epidemics do not respect national borders. The French Agence nationale du médicament vétérinaire (ANMV) has therefore approved the development of an adapted vaccine (ATU Filavac VHD Var K) that is effective against this variant. So far, this vaccine may only be vaccinated if it can be proven that the regular RHD2 vaccine is not effective.

Weiterlesen

Important basic knowledge for newbies

What you have to know as a newbie

The internet offers a lot of information for beginners (often confusing and contradicting). But what do you really need to know and what is really important? What facts are useful and important for beginners?

How old do rabbits become?

Rabbits can become 8-12 years, in exceptional cases they also can die earlier or grow even older than 12 years. The lifespan rises, if the rabbit is treaten species appropriate which includes food and space needs, but also by good observation and fast reactions and right treatment of health issues.

Single-housed, pair or group?

Rabbits should never be kept alone because that is not species appropriate. That’s why it is forbidden by law in Switzerland and Austria. It is also against the German animal protection rights that determinates rabbits „should be kept according to their needs“.

A pair or a harmonic group of three (who already been adopted together) are very harmonic and the best combination for beginners. If you want to have a bigger group, you should start with a small group and get experience first before you enlarge your group. A group should contain the same amount of castrated males and females. Groups only of male or female often collapse. An exception would be two early casrated males that grow up together.

Rabbits for kids? Pet animals?

The rabbit is not an easy-care animal. Rabbits are more expensive and need more care than people think and they hate it to be lifted and be taken around. If you lift your rabbit it becomes anxious and timid. If parents support the welfare of animals, they can show their children a respectful treatment of the rabbits, by petting the rabbits on the ground and feed them from hand. Besides, rabbits are great for observation and you can build adventure playgrounds for them. As a parent you should be aware of the amount of work that a rabbit involves. The most work, like cleaning and the daily routine, is done by the parents, because children have often a lot of other hobbies.

Let the rabbits get to know each other, incompatible rabbits

Rabbits are very social animals. There is no rabbit that doesn’t like other rabbits. The problem often is part of the behaviour of the owner. A lot of owners treat their rabbits wrong while putting it to a new buddy. This is a mistake and it seems like the rabbit is not compatible with the other one.

As an owner you need to inform yourself how to integrate new rabbits into your group or how to get your rabbit a new friend.

Rabbits should never be put together in familiar territory and should be able to clear their hierarchy( fights, flying fur, mate, chasing). It takes several days until the rabbits get along with each other and are able to to get back to the normal territory.

How expensive is it to have rabbits?

Rabbits are not the cheapest pets. You may need 100€-250€ for building a proper and marten-safe enclosure for two rabbits. For the diet you can calculate 1€ per animal per day, if you buy saisonally and on a budget. In the summer you should switch to meadow plants which is very healthy and has no costs. Vet bills can’t be calculated in advance but if your rabbit gets sick you can calculate between 80€-200€. Some rabbits never get sick, some are regularly ill. It depends on the origin, the diet and how the animals are kept.

What to feed?

It is very easy but is often done wrong. The digest system of the rabbit is the same as the one from their wild relatives and for that they need the same food. This means meadow plants, leaves, branches and twigs, buds, blossoms, roots; everything nature has to offer. The main food of the rabbit that should always be available, besides hay, is diversed fodder. You can collect it in the nature in the summer (dandelion, grasses, hogweed, ribwort..) in the winter you can choose green leafy vegetables like bitter lettuce, herbs and cabbage and add fruits. Water should be given in a bowl because rabbits don’t drink much from drinking bottles, where the water only comes in drops.

Totally inappropriate for the rabbits diet is all kind of prepared food/ rabbit food from the store. There are very few food types that do not contain pellets or colorfully clumps and are put together properly and suitable for the rabbits digestion.

How are rabbits kept?

Even though the traditional way to keep rabbits uses coves, stables and cages, it is not species appropriate and is animal cruelty. Just ask yourself: would you put your cat in such a prison? Rabbits are very active and also nocturnal. The stable should have a fundamental free run that is marten-safe. If your rabbit is house-trained, you can keep it free in your house or flat or you can fence off a part of a room for the rabbit, instead of using a cage. It is also possible to keep your rabbit on the balcony.

Two rabbits, who have daily access to a free run for several hours per day, need at least 4 m² corral. Rabbit groups without access to free run or with irregular access to free run we recommend at least 10-12 m² corral. Other organisations recommend in this case 6m² as a minimum.

Are rabbis weatherproof?

Rabbits are perfect to be kept outside in the garden or on the balcony for the whole year, or can be kept inside.

As far as the rabbits are living in a big corral with parcial roofing, they can be kept outside, regardless of weather conditions. Rabbits love to dig snow, graze in light rain and rage during all weather conditions.

If it is too wet or too cold for the rabbits, they go to a safer place on their own. Rabbits should have access to free run at all the time and during all weather conditions and should have the opportunity to decide themselves where to be.

If you want to keep your rabbits outside, they should get used to the outdoor temperature slowly by putting them outside in the summer months.

Don’t make the mistage by putting the rabbits outside into a small stand in the winter. In this case the rabbit would vegetate in a little refrigerator and could even freeze to death.

How to keep the rabbits healthy?

Rabbits are flight animals and by this they will always lay low as long as possible to keep up with the group, even when they are already very sick.

When symptoms are recognisable, the disease has already progressed. To avoid „sudden death rabbits“ it is important to do a „Short Check“ twice a day:

  1. Do all rabbits eat with the same appetite as usual?
  2. Does the rabbit behave normal as usual or does it behave different? (sitting in other places, does not come to the owner as usual, is it more trusting than usual?)
  3. Does th rabbit move as much as usual or is it only sitting around?

If your rabbit does not eat properly or behaves differently, it is a sign for being sick and you should visit a veterinarian as quickly as you can, for example the emergency service.

We recommend to have emergency medicine in your medicine cabinet if the rabbit refuses to eat.

This emergency medicine is made of „Sab Simplex“ (Pharmacy), cooking oil and baby tea for belly welfare.

Give a shot of Sab Simplex into a small container like eggcup, add some of the belly tea powder (do not mix the powder with water), add 5 drops of cooking oil and pull it into a 1ml- syringe (without needle) and put it into the rabbits mouth. Repeat once an hour until the rabbit starts eating again.

If the rabbit does not eat small amounts of herbs or other food (held in front of the rabbits mouth) you need to cantact the emergency service.

Do a health check regulary. Everything you need to know about it, you will find here: Health check . Part of the health check is : faecal sample once a year, cutting claws, if they are not used enough and an examination of the animal.

In spring rabbits should be vaccinated against myxomatosis, RHD and RHD2, especially in infected areas.

Where to get appropriate and healthy rabbits?

Do not buy your rabbits at a pet shop, a construction store or at a small animal market. These animals come from mass breeding. By buying a rabbit from these markets and shops, you support the mass breeders. The animals are mostly sick and have intestants-parasites and from mass-breeders you don’t get a good consultation.

You should get your rabbits from an animal shelter or an emergency station, sometimes private individuals are also a good choice. There you get healthy, veterinary checked, neutered and often vaccinated animals. Here you get a good consultation, you can give the animals back in case of an emergency and you can get help if there are problems or you have questions.

Young animals should be adopted with 10 weeks, better with 12 weeks. If you get offered animals younger than that, than the offerer is not professional and serious.

Find more information about origin here: Where to buy rabbits?