Offspring

Rabbit Offspring

Important: This page is intended to inform rabbit owners about the process of rabbit reproduction. It can help raise young rabbits in case of accidental litters or provide breeders with additional tips for breeding. It is not meant to encourage the breeding of rabbits, as breeding without sufficient knowledge often results in diseases and hereditary defects. This is irresponsible!

Sexual Maturity

Male rabbits reach sexual maturity at three to four months for small breeds, seven months for medium-sized breeds, and around 9-12 months for large breeds.
For females, it is a bit more complicated; females born in the fall should reach sexual maturity at about 5 months, while those born in the spring should be ready at around 8.5 months.
The male rabbit mounting the female is not an indication of sexual maturity, as this behavior often occurs before reaching maturity. It can be seen as a display of dominance or just „for practice,“ and it will not lead to fertilization at this stage.
From 12 weeks of age, rabbits should be separated by gender to prevent accidental breeding, or male babies should be castrated early before 12 weeks and remain in the group.

Breeding Readiness

When rabbits reach sexual maturity, they are not yet ready for breeding, as they are still young and growing, with all their nutrients going into the healthy development of their own bodies. Early pregnancies can harm the female’s development and often lead to birth complications, neglect of the offspring, or even the death of the mother. This risk should never be taken.
Females are ready for breeding when they are nearly fully grown, which occurs around 8-12 months depending on the breed and individual development. The male rabbit is generally ready for breeding at about six months.
Fully grown rabbits should not have their first litter after the age of 1.5 to 2 years, as the risk of complications increases. Anatomically, birth becomes more difficult as they age. Females should be retired from breeding at about 4 to 5 years, as the complication rate also rises with age.

Suitable Rabbits for Breeding

Only healthy rabbits that are not prone to diseases should be paired. The rabbits should have had a robust digestive system and be free from hereditary diseases. The same applies to the parents of the breeding rabbits. Before breeding, hidden diseases that can be passed on to the offspring should be ruled out through fecal (for parasites?) and blood tests (for E. Cuniculi?). Pay attention to social compatibility and temperament, and avoid pairing rabbits that are aggressive, very shy, or have poor social behaviors.

Rabbits that should be excluded from breeding:

• Rabbits of unknown ancestry (if the breeding rabbits or their parents have no pedigree)
• Rabbits from families with hereditary diseases should be excluded from breeding, or if recessive hereditary defects are intentionally bred (e.g., lethal factor in dwarf rabbits, megacolon in Harlequin rabbits, or Max factor in Lionheads), only one parent should carry the disease, and the offspring should only be given to breeders who also breed in a way that only one parent carries the disease.
• Rabbits with dental issues (misalignment, dental spurs, etc.) should be removed from breeding, as should rabbits descended from such animals.
• Rabbits prone to diseases or parasites (intestinal or skin parasites) should not be bred.
• Hand-raised young rabbits should not be used for breeding.
• Rabbits that had problems with previous litters (miscarriages, premature births, failure to care for the young, birth complications, etc.).
• Inbred rabbits (those related) should not be paired by novice or inexperienced breeders. Line breeding is only suitable for experienced breeders.
• Rabbits carrying coccidia or other intestinal parasites (these can be passed to the offspring – get a fecal test!).
• Rabbits infected with snuffles (which can be transmitted to offspring – did the rabbit or another family member have nasal discharge or snuffles in the past?).
• Rabbits carrying E. Cuniculi (which can be transmitted to the offspring – did the breeding rabbit or any family members have uveitis, kidney failure, or neurological symptoms like paralysis or head tilt? All breeding rabbits should be tested before being used).
• Breeding should also take into account breed-specific diseases (e.g., hip dysplasia in German Giants).
• Breeds classified as „cruel breeding“ should not be bred.

Breeding Intervals

An ideal breeding interval is about half a year to 1.5 years between litters. A female rabbit should not be bred more than twice a year, as pregnancy and nursing physically exhaust the rabbit. Adequate recovery time is needed between litters. If the intervals are longer than 1.5 years, the complication rate increases, which is also not ideal.

Fertility

It is no coincidence that the saying „breeding like rabbits“ associates rabbits with high fertility.
Unlike many other mammals, a rabbit’s ovulation is triggered by mating, meaning that eggs mature inside the body and are available for fertilization for about 1-2 weeks. Therefore, rabbits are fertile most of the time, and they are only temporarily unavailable for mating when the eggs are maturing, which lasts for about 1-2 days.
Ovulation can also be triggered by mounting by another doe or a neutered buck, which may cause ovulation without fertilization, leading to a false pregnancy.

Heat Cycle

In spacious housing, female rabbits can avoid the male and thus avoid mating. This is not possible in the often-practiced confinement breeding in small cages. Normally, rabbits engage in a pronounced courtship behavior before the female allows the male to mount her. Therefore, mating in a confined space is akin to forcing the female. However, if the female is extremely in heat, the courtship behavior may be shortened or omitted, and the male may mount the female quickly. The female’s heat is evident from her restless behavior and the well-perfused genital area. The intervals between heat cycles vary greatly from rabbit to rabbit and cannot be generalized.

Mating

For mating, the rabbits should be placed in a separate enclosure outside of their territory (introduced together). If this is not possible, it is preferable to place the female with the male. The best time for mating is chosen based on the behavior and the color change of the genital organs, so that the doe is in heat. This way, pairing can be done without much conflict. The doe will stay with the male for about five to six days. During this time, mating will occur. The male mounts the doe after a longer mating play, which includes jumps, chases, and shared grazing, and then falls off the doe about 10-15 seconds later, landing on his back.

Superfetation – Double Pregnancy

Rabbits have a duplex uterus, meaning they have two independent uterine horns with separate cervices, and both can carry fetuses independently. Therefore, it is possible for a rabbit to become pregnant again during an existing pregnancy, leading to two litters with about 14 days‘ difference. However, this often results in poor development of the fetuses, miscarriages, or the death of many young rabbits. Double pregnancies in rabbits are quite rare.

Pregnant/“Expecting“?

For a layperson, it can be difficult to tell if a rabbit is pregnant. Experienced breeders or veterinarians can feel for pregnancy as early as two weeks, at which point the roundness in the back part of the abdomen is quite noticeable and easy to feel. An ultrasound examination can also confirm or rule out pregnancy, but it often causes too much stress for the expectant mother. Pregnant rabbits display noticeable behavioral changes, but these are also typical of false pregnancies, which are triggered by mating (in which case the doe will act as though she is pregnant around 14 days after mating). Only in the last week of pregnancy is the size of the belly usually noticeable, but this is only the case if there are many babies; otherwise, pregnancy may not be detectable until the end. Experienced breeders can sometimes even estimate the number of young based on feeling the abdomen.

Resorption – Absorption of Fetuses

Rabbits have the ability to absorb fetuses, meaning they can cause the embryos to die and be broken down by the body. Even after successful fertilization, pregnancies can be terminated or the number of fetuses reduced. It is suspected that resorption is triggered or facilitated by stress. Resorption of fetuses can happen up to the third week of pregnancy.

Pregnancy & Birth Preparations

Pregnancy lasts about 31 days (29-33 days). Just before giving birth, the rabbit will begin to prepare for it. In the wild, it would dig a burrow, so in outdoor enclosures, care should be taken to prevent the mother from digging too deep, so that the newborns can be monitored after birth. The mother needs a large hutch, which she will line with hay, plucked fur, and other nesting materials. Ideally, the hutch should be designed so that the young remain protected inside, and a nesting box is recommended. An open nest is less preferred, and the young can be pulled out of the nest by the mother and exposed to the cold, which could lead to death. Plenty of hay and other materials should always be provided.

To meet the high energy demands during pregnancy, the expectant mother needs sufficient, energy-rich food (fresh food as much as she wants, along with seeds and oats…). To ensure she meets her nutritional needs, food should be balanced and varied (mainly fresh food, lots of greens, supplemented with seeds, dried herbs, hay, and water). Fresh foods like dandelion, turnips, and fennel can stimulate milk production and encourage lactation. Pure fruit juices and herbal teas can be offered in a bowl along with water to increase milk supply.

In a harmonious group with plenty of space (large enclosure, at least 6m²), the expectant mother can remain integrated and does not need to be separated, as long as the group dynamics are monitored. In a tense or critical group, or with potent males, she must be separated. The mother can be mated again within a few hours after giving birth! The other group members often help care for the young. Growing up in a group is less stressful for the mothers, as the babies are also cared for by other group members. Additionally, the babies learn good social behavior, making them well-adjusted, friendly rabbits. Even separated rabbit mothers need a large enclosure so they can raise their babies without stress; a cage is not suitable. If the mother cannot stay away from the nest (this is instinctual to avoid attracting predators), she will be under great stress. Stress of any kind should be avoided during pregnancy.

Birth

After 29-33 days of pregnancy (usually after 31 days), the mother gives birth to up to fourteen young. Usually, five to six young are born, although three to ten is also common. Birth typically occurs during peak activity times, in the early morning hours (from 4 a.m.) or late in the evening. The mother removes the membranes surrounding the babies and eats them. She also eats the placenta and navel cord. Additionally, the babies are vigorously licked. The licking stimulates circulation and cleans them of membrane remnants and blood. The babies take on the mother’s scent, strengthening the bond between them.
The young are altricial, born naked, deaf, and blind. They are first nursed (colostrum) right after birth, or sometimes only after a day.

Unlike other mammals, rabbits and guinea pigs are born with fairly good fat reserves, so even with suboptimal milk production, they are usually well-nourished. The placenta barrier is permeable (hemocorial or hemodichorial placenta), meaning the immune system is developed in the womb, and they are not as reliant on colostrum as other species.

Nest Inspection

After birth, once the mother leaves the nest and is distracted, a nest inspection is necessary. Dead young, left-over placentas, and bloody bedding should be removed to allow the babies to grow up healthily. The babies can be touched; the mother will still accept them. If the young are found scattered around the enclosure or if the nest is insufficient, they must be placed in a well-padded, self-made nest to avoid freezing. They can only maintain their body temperature through the warmth of the nest. If necessary, a warm water bottle can be placed under the nest (not too hot, change it twice a day, and cover it with a cloth!).
The nest should be inspected daily to ensure all the babies are receiving enough milk. The mother should be distracted with food or exercise, and the path to the babies should be blocked so that she does not notice the disturbance. The nest should be carefully inspected with warm, clean hands. The bellies of the babies should be plump and not wrinkled, and the babies should be warm and clean. If the babies are very restless, searching for the nest and making noises, they are likely hungry and poorly nourished. Size differences between the babies are normal. A daily weighing is usually not necessary and can be very stressful for the babies and mother. However, if there is uncertainty about whether a baby is being adequately fed, it can be weighed once daily for two to three days. If the mother has poor milk production or if there is concern about her ability to care for the young, this can help determine if the babies are gaining, losing, or maintaining weight. The birth weight varies depending on the breed and number of babies. The important thing is that the babies should gain weight daily, and they should double their birth weight by the end of the first week.

If one or more babies are underfed or losing weight, they can be placed at the mother’s nipples, by gently laying her on her back and positioning the baby on her belly.
If the babies are found scattered and not in the nest, the nest should be checked two to three times daily, and the babies should be placed back in it. If they are cold, they should be warmed up. This typically happens if the nest has not been adequately made or if the mother is stressed. The mother is often disturbed by frequent nest inspections. It is important to distract her and conduct the inspection quickly and discreetly, only as often as absolutely necessary.

Important: The mother typically nurses her babies only once, or sometimes up to three times a day, usually in the late evening and early morning hours. Therefore, the mother is almost never, and only briefly, seen at the nest. This is entirely normal and not a cause for concern.

Tame Rabbit Babies (Socialization)

Studies show that early contact during the first week of life has a strong impact on whether the rabbits will be tame later in life. This contact should occur near the time of nursing and should be done sensitively to avoid disturbing the rearing process. It is sufficient to place a piece of clothing with human scent near the nest. However, the mother may feel disturbed by this. If in doubt, it is best to begin socializing the rabbits in weeks 4 to 6 of life, as this is another sensitive period where they should have positive experiences with humans.

Development in the Nursery

The baby rabbits are completely helpless in the first few days, naked, and reliant on nest warmth. However, their coat patterns already indicate the future fur color distribution. By day two, you can see the first tips of fur, and by about day six, they are fully covered in fur. The babies huddle together in the nest, being nursed and licked clean one to three times a day (usually at night). The mother also removes the young’s waste to keep the nest clean.

Um den zehnten bis elften Lebenstag herum öffnen sich ihre Augen, je nach Entwicklungsstand kann sich dieser Zeitpunkt auch verzögern. Kurz darauf, in ihrer zweiten Lebenswoche, werden sie etwas mobiler und krabbeln kurze Zeit aus dem Nest, laufen umher (gehoppelt wird noch nicht) und suchen recht schnell wieder das Nest auf. Die meiste Zeit schlafen sie noch zusammengekuschelt im Nest. Ihre Körpertemperatur können sie außerhalb des Nestes noch nicht über längere Zeit beibehalten, deshalb müssen sie problemlos zurück ins Nest laufen können. Wenn sie kurze Ausflüge machen, versuchen sie bei der Mutter oder bei den anderen Kaninchen zu trinken. Die Mutter wehrt diese Versuche jedoch meist ab (das ist ganz normal), indem sie weg hoppelt. Nun kann man verstärkt beobachten, dass sie sich viel kratzen. Diese „Katzphase“ dient dazu, den Gleichgewichtssinn zu schulen und die spätere Koordination des Körpers zu üben.

Schon in der zweiten Lebenswoche beginnen die Babys am Futter zu knabbern, das auch die Großen fressen. Erst einmal nehmen sie alles in den Mund („orale Phase“) und nuckeln darauf herum. Später wird das Futter dann auch richtig gefressen. Trotzdem sind sie noch auf die Nestwärme angewiesen und werden weiter gesäugt. Knabbern dürfen sie Wiesenpflanzen wie z.B. Gräser und Löwenzahn, Zweige und deren Blätter, Laub, Gemüse, Obst, Trockenkräuter und Heu. Trockenfutter aller Art ist weder für die Mutter, noch für die Babys als Futter geeignet. Das junge Kaninchen kein Frischfutter vertragen, ist ein Mythos, sie dürfen von Anfang an Frischfutter fressen. Getreide und andere stark stärkehaltige Nahrung vertragen sie jedoch erst sehr viel später.

Around the tenth to eleventh day of life, their eyes begin to open, although this may be delayed depending on their development. Shortly thereafter, in their second week of life, they become a bit more mobile and crawl out of the nest for short periods, running around (they still don’t hop) and quickly returning to the nest. Most of the time, they still sleep cuddled together in the nest. They are unable to maintain their body temperature outside the nest for long, so they must be able to return to the nest without difficulty. During brief excursions, they attempt to nurse from their mother or other rabbits, but the mother usually rejects these attempts (which is completely normal) by hopping away. At this point, it’s noticeable that they scratch themselves a lot. This „scratching phase“ serves to train their sense of balance and help practice coordination for later body movements.

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In their second week, the babies begin nibbling on the same foods that the adults eat. At first, they put everything in their mouths („oral phase“) and chew on it. Later, they begin to actually eat the food. However, they are still dependent on the warmth of the nest and continue to nurse. They are allowed to nibble on meadow plants such as grasses and dandelions, twigs and their leaves, foliage, vegetables, fruits, dried herbs, and hay. Dry food of any kind is not suitable for either the mother or the babies. The idea that young rabbits cannot tolerate fresh food is a myth; they can start eating fresh food from the beginning. However, they can only tolerate grains and other starchy foods much later.

By the fourth week of life, the babies eat such large quantities that they could survive on it alone. Still, the addition of mother’s milk is crucial for their further development and health. The young rabbits play around, interact with each other, and explore their surroundings. It is now important to provide the mother with retreat areas (e.g., using a board that the babies cannot cross or elevated seating areas) so that she can recover from the young ones. Between six and eight weeks, the babies are gradually weaned; they begin to eat independently and occasionally take a bit of milk from their mother. During this phase, they still like to cuddle with the adults and their mother.

Development of the babies with photos

Impressions of Mama Hilde with her happy offspring in a large group from Rabbit Ranch Bonn

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Important: Do not give the baby rabbits away from the mother too early (never before the 12th week of life, ideally between 14-16 weeks) – for the following reasons:

• Observations clearly show that rabbits nurse from their mother far longer than until the 6th or 8th week. Since this usually happens only at night, most breeders do not notice. Baby rabbits need mother’s milk to develop a healthy immune system. If they are abruptly weaned, this process is often disrupted.
• The first four months are the most formative socialization phase for rabbits. At this age, they learn social behavior in a group setting with adults and siblings. For this, a harmonious, stable group with adults of different sexes is necessary. Animals that are kept alone or only with one other rabbit during this phase will have poorer social behavior later on and will not be as compatible.
• The babies play and cuddle with each other intensely in the first weeks; contact with an adult rabbit can never replace the baby games. It’s similar to a human child growing up without contact with peers.
• During this phase, the intestinal flora and immune system are developed. Moving to a new owner (or to a pet store), changing the diet, and introducing new social situations expose the rabbit to new germs, causing unnecessary stress and burden, so that some animals may suffer from immune deficiencies for the rest of their lives.
• The babies consume the mother’s cecotropes to optimally develop their gut flora. This is only possible if they are allowed to stay with their mother until the 16th week.

Explain to the new owners that it is also in their best interest to not take the babies too early, as they also want healthy, happy, and social young animals. Taking them away from their mother and siblings, pulling them from their familiar environment and family, prevents them from learning good social behavior, stabilizing their digestion, and growing up happy and healthy.

By the 12th week of life, the first rabbits reach sexual maturity, so they must now be separated by gender. Ideally, they should be neutered around the 11th week so they can stay in the group (after neutering from the 12th week or sexual maturity, they remain fertile for up to six weeks).

Why should rabbits grow up in a group with other rabbits and not just with their mother?

Young rabbits learn social behavior from adult rabbits of both sexes and are raised in such a way that they become more compatible later, especially in larger groups: Socialization

Important Consideration:

Unfortunately, far too many rabbits are still sold into poor living conditions, fed to snakes or other animals, and mistreated. Pay close attention to where the babies will live later. Do a pre- and post-check, talk to the potential owners, and only give the animals away with a protection agreement. Ensure proper feeding and species-appropriate housing (no cage or hutch confinement).

Sources
Baumann, P. (2003): The effect of nest access on the behaviour of rabbit does and on the survival of their pups.

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