This is how you create the perfect enclosure for disabled and elderly rabbits.

Enclosures for Rabbits with Disabilities – Tips for a Needs-Based Design

Rabbits with disabilities — meaning those with physical limitations such as paralysis, blindness, amputations, or age-related issues — require special consideration when designing their enclosure. A properly adapted environment can make a decisive difference in ensuring that, despite their disabilities, these animals enjoy a safe, fulfilling life that respects their natural behavior.

Senior rabbits have special needs.

Mobility Impairments: Designing an Adapted Enclosure

A well-designed enclosure allows a disabled rabbit to move around independently and safely, without constantly relying on the caregiver’s help. The following measures are especially important to achieve this:

Floor Design

A soft, non-slip floor is essential, as rabbits with disabilities may struggle to walk or jump. Carpets help prevent slipping and injuries. Blankets can be secured with rug grippers or weighted down with stones in the corners; often, placing them under furniture or using carpets with a rubber backing is enough. It’s important that the carpets are washable and small enough to fit in a washing machine.

The Right Flooring for Paralyzed or Bedridden Rabbits

Care is demanding because the rabbits urinate and defecate all the time.

Important: A particularly difficult situation arises when rabbits can no longer move and remain lying in the same spot. This condition must never become permanent. Sadly, some people still allow their animals to “survive” like this for far too long.

When a rabbit can no longer move on its own, its quality of life is severely diminished. It’s crucial to determine exactly which illness is causing the condition. If it cannot be treated, the most compassionate decision is to help the animal pass peacefully. As hard as this may be for the caregiver, it would not be fair to keep an animal alive that can no longer live in a way consistent with its species.

If the illness is treatable, the situation demands a great deal of effort, time, and care from the owner. Anyone unable or unwilling to take on that responsibility should also choose to let the animal go — otherwise, it will suffer from sores, poor hygiene, and an overall decline in well-being.

Soft Base Layer

Since these animals spend long periods lying in the same position, they can develop pressure sores if the ground is too hard. To prevent this, it’s essential to provide a soft, well-padded surface. Suitable options include:

If the rabbit falls over, make sure it can’t injure its eyes on the bedding.
  • Dog beds: Washable, waterproof, and generally soft (depending on the model), making them an excellent base. Synthetic leather beds with low edges are particularly suitable.
  • Thick carpets: Also usable, though they are harder to clean and often need to be replaced afterward.
  • Vetbeds: These allow urine to drain through easily, keeping the surface drier.
  • Thick layer of hay, straw, or wood shavings: These materials can also create a comfortable floor covering.
  • Thin exercise mat: A good alternative to soften the floor.
  • Natural grass: The ideal surface if available (watch out for fly larvae—using protective netting is recommended).
  • Old fabrics, mattresses, or cushions: Usable as long as they’re placed over a waterproof urine barrier, such as absorbent pads or incontinence protectors.

Absorbent Underlayer

A highly absorbent base is essential, as immobile rabbits urinate and defecate where they lie, causing waste to accumulate in one spot. The most suitable materials include:

  • Incontinence pads: Available at pharmacies, supermarkets, online retailers like Amazon, and veterinary clinics. They are disposable but create a significant amount of waste. To prevent slipping, place them on top of a non-slip mat. Puppy training pads can also be used.
  • Wood pellets or shavings: Effective as long as they’re covered with a soft top layer for comfort.

Waterproof or Urine-Repellent Top Layer

The top layer is especially important when a rabbit stays in the same spot most of the time. It must keep the animal dry, allow proper drainage of urine, provide traction to prevent slipping, and help avoid sores or skin irritation. On surfaces that offer good grip, even paralyzed rabbits can move a little on their own. This is key to reducing the risk of ulcers, preventing pressure wounds, and often eliminating the need for physiotherapy. Based on experience, natural grass provides the best results.

Recommended materials:

  • Vetbeds: Repel urine and let liquid drain through, keeping the surface dry and the rabbit comfortable. They’re washable and easy to reuse.
  • Thick carpets: Also effective since they provide traction and allow some drainage, keeping the surface relatively dry depending on the material. However, they’re difficult to wash and usually need to be discarded afterward.
  • Natural grass: The ideal surface. Even nearly paralyzed rabbits can move a bit on it because it offers good grip, drains urine quickly, and prevents moisture-related sores. For outdoor areas, the space should be roofed and protected with fly-proof mesh.
  • Hay: A valid alternative to grass or vetbeds, as long as it’s laid down in a thick, stable layer. It should be soft hay. Not recommended for rabbits that spin in circles, as they may injure their eyes.

Barrier-Free Access

Ramps, stairs, or raised platforms should be avoided, or built with a very gentle slope. Rabbits with disabilities often struggle to climb or maintain balance, so a fully ground-level enclosure is the safest option to prevent falls and accidents.

If elevated areas are included, they must have safety edges and wide, low-incline ramps for access. Ramps should also feature side rails or barriers to prevent falls.

When ramps are absolutely necessary, they should be as flat as possible and covered with a non-slip surface to make movement easier. Access to resting, feeding, and drinking areas should always be easy to reach, without obstacles or steep transitions.

Low and Wide Entrances

Houses or hiding spots should have wide, low openings so the rabbit can enter effortlessly. Elevated or narrow entrances should be avoided, as they can be difficult or even impossible for a disabled rabbit to use.

Spacious Environment

The enclosure should be large enough for the rabbit to move freely and comfortably without bumping into obstacles. Narrow corridors and hard-to-reach corners should be avoided to ensure easy, unrestricted movement.

Rabbits in Wheelchairs?

Many cases of paralysis in rabbits are extremely painful, particularly those caused by spinal injuries. It’s often overlooked whether the condition causes pain, and people may rush to use a wheelchair to help the rabbit move. However, it’s important to remember that a rabbit is not a dog or a human. Rabbits move by hopping, and each hop involves spinal movement — meaning that if the spine is damaged, every attempt to move can cause severe pain.

Moreover, rabbits rarely show pain clearly, so they may appear fine while actually suffering. Unlike dogs, which live closely with us and can be placed in or out of a wheelchair for walks and rest, this isn’t practical for rabbits. A rabbit in a wheelchair cannot choose freely when to rest, stay still, or move.

Therefore, this issue must be approached with great caution and critical judgment, since very few people can be with the animal around the clock to put on or remove the wheelchair at the right times.

Adapting Resting and Sleeping Areas

Rabbits with disabilities need especially comfortable resting spots, as they often spend long periods lying down to conserve energy. These areas should be soft, warm, and easily accessible, without steps or barriers. Using padded bedding, fleece blankets, or vetbeds helps prevent pressure sores and provides comfort. The space should also be quiet, free from drafts, and located in a safe corner of the enclosure where the rabbit feels secure and undisturbed.

Rabbits that tend to roll need, in addition to a non-slip surface, towel rolls on the sides (with a water bottle inside) to support themselves and move more easily.

Long resting periods and limited mobility can lead to pressure sores, just as in humans. For this reason, it’s essential to provide a soft surface that helps prevent wounds on the legs and ulcers on the skin.

Tips for Designing Rest Areas

Comfortable Sleeping Spots:
A soft, well-padded floor — such as blankets or special synthetic leather dog mattresses — helps relieve pressure on the rabbit’s joints and muscles. These materials should be cleaned regularly to maintain hygiene and comfort.
Recommendation: a flat synthetic leather dog mattress, a thin exercise mat, or a low-edged bed.

Easy Access:
Resting areas should be easily accessible. Low shelters or tunnels without high edges are ideal for rabbits with disabilities.

Safe Hiding Spaces:
Disabled rabbits also need places where they can hide and feel secure. These should be designed so the animal can enter and exit effortlessly — for example, with wide openings or open sides.

Observe Your Rabbits:
Pay attention to which spots they prefer and which they find difficult to use. Adjust the resting areas according to their behavior and needs to improve their comfort and well-being.

Adapting Feeding and Drinking Areas

Feeding should be easy and stress-free for rabbits with disabilities, allowing them to reach food and water comfortably without effort.

Water and food must always be within the rabbit’s reach!

Low Bowls:
Use stable, shallow dishes for food and water so the rabbit can access them easily. Avoid tall or unstable containers, which may be uncomfortable or impossible for them to use. Bird feeders that attach to the enclosure bars can also work well — they’re stable and can be positioned at the perfect height.

All food and water areas should be at ground level, so the rabbit doesn’t need to stretch or jump. This makes access easier, especially for animals with limited mobility.

Easy Access:
Place feeders and water bowls so the rabbit can reach them from different angles. For rabbits with vision problems or paralysis on one side, it’s important to avoid setups that require awkward movements or complicated positioning to eat or drink.

Special Needs of Rabbits with Balance Problems (e.g., Caused by Encephalitozoon cuniculi – EC)

Rabbits suffering from balance disorders due to conditions such as Encephalitozoon cuniculi (EC) — which often causes rolling or tipping over — require a particularly safe and well-adapted environment. Their lack of stability makes it difficult for them to move safely or stay upright, so the proper setup of their enclosure is crucial to prevent injuries and reduce stress.

Adapted Feeding

Rabbits with a head tilt or balance issues often struggle to eat from regular bowls. Place food along the edges of the enclosure, scattered on the floor, or in wide, shallow dishes that are easy to reach. This way, the rabbit doesn’t need to stretch or strain to eat, allowing it to feed more comfortably and calmly.

Preventing Eye Injuries from Substrate

For rabbits that frequently fall or roll over, certain substrates can pose a risk, as particles may get into their eyes and cause irritation or injury. In these cases, it’s better to use a softer base such as vetbeds or special synthetic leather dog mattresses. These materials significantly reduce the risk of eye injuries and are much safer for rabbits with balance issues.

Wicker Bridges

Wicker bridges and similar tunnels are ideal for rabbits with balance disorders. They provide stable shelters that the rabbit can lean against, and their covered, darker design creates a sense of safety and protection. They have no sharp edges and offer the rabbit a secure space to rest and feel calm.

Lateral Support with Rolled Towels

A good way to assist rabbits that frequently fall to one side is to place rolled-up towels or mats around them. You can also use a towel-wrapped bottle to provide additional support without restricting movement. This setup helps prevent injuries and repeated falls. The rabbit can move between the “corridors” created, and if it tips over, it can use the soft supports to push itself upright more easily.

Non-Slip Surface

To help rabbits that fall over regain their footing on their own, they need a stable, grippy surface. Vetbeds are an excellent choice because they don’t slide when the rabbit pushes off with its legs, providing a firm, secure base.

Barrier-Free Access
(See the previous section.)

Senses of rabbits

Vision (visual perception)
Field of view

Due to their protruding, large eyes located on the sides of the head, rabbits have a very wide field of view. Unlike humans, they can perceive their surroundings almost all around them (365 degrees) when holding their heads up, which allows them to quickly detect predators both from the air and from the ground. They can therefore also see behind them.


Three-dimensional (binocular) vision is only possible at the front and back (about 10% in the front, 9% in the back). Over the forehead and directly in front of the nose there is a blind spot where rabbits cannot see. In this area, they rely on other senses (smell and touch). This is why rabbits first sniff and feel treats before tasting them.

However, spatial vision is restricted in albino rabbits (they have mostly one-dimensional vision and weak eyesight). In addition, they are extremely light-sensitive and should be kept in the shade. Studies on albino rats have shown that even low light intensities of 60 lux can cause long-term eye damage (phototoxic retinopathy). These animals already avoid stronger light intensities from 25 lux onward. Non-albino rabbits, however, tolerate high light intensities without harm, e.g. 1200 lux over several weeks. Some albinos suffer from nystagmus or exhibit scanning movements to better perceive their surroundings. Lop rabbits (with floppy ears) have a restricted field of view compared to upright-eared rabbits due to their hanging ears (see illustration).

Albino rabbits are limited in their spatial vision.

Day vision and color perception

Each animal species perceives its environment differently. To put ourselves in the place of our rabbits, it can be helpful to understand how they see the world.

Rabbits are farsighted (0.5–1 diopter), caused by a corneal curvature (astigmatism). They are especially good at detecting movement (at a distance), while nearby, motionless objects are seen poorly.

What does the world actually look like to rabbits?

Normally, animals (including humans) can constrict or dilate their pupils depending on the amount of incoming light. Rabbits, however, can hardly constrict their pupils, which makes them very light-sensitive as crepuscular animals. Under strong sunlight, their vision is significantly impaired.

The eye contains different types of receptor cells responsible for vision. Rods enable the perception of various shades of gray, while cones are responsible for color vision. Rabbits have S-cones, which allow them to perceive violet-blue light, and M-cones, which allow them to perceive green light. Unlike humans, they lack cones that detect red light. Therefore, rabbits—similar to humans with red-green color blindness—see red and green as the same shade.

Rabbits cannot distinguish between red and green and are slightly farsighted. However, they are extremely good at detecting movement.

Night vision

Rabbits are better able to orient themselves at dusk and in the dark than humans. Thanks to their large, dilated pupils and highly light-sensitive rods, they perceive their surroundings in low light as comparatively bright, which gives them good overall awareness. However, their ability to see details is limited.

Hearing (acoustic perception)

Rabbits have excellent hearing. They can perceive sounds in a frequency range between 60 and 49,000 hertz, whereas humans can only hear between 20 and 20,000 hertz. This means rabbits can detect very high-pitched sounds that humans cannot perceive (ultrasound).

The auricle (outer ear) contributes significantly to a rabbit’s sound perception. It is freely movable and can be rotated toward the direction of a sound. Rabbits can rotate their auricles almost 360 degrees (in all directions), independently of head movement. Each ear can also be oriented independently.

Depending on ear shape, rabbits may be limited in their acoustic perception according to breed. Rabbits with particularly small or heavily furred ears perceive acoustic stimuli less well than large-eared rabbits.

The most problematic case is found in lop rabbits (floppy ears). Studies show that lops are extremely hard of hearing and, due to chronic ear infections—which occur in up to 80% of lops as a breed-specific issue—often even become deaf. (See Lop rabbit problems.)

Smell (olfactory perception)

Rabbits rely heavily on their sense of smell. With over 100 million olfactory cells, it is highly developed. Depending on the breed, their sense of smell is comparable to that of dogs (100–200 million) and pigs, and about five times stronger than that of humans. For humans, it is hard to imagine how orientation through smell can be as precise as it is for many animals. Considering that truffle pigs can detect truffles through a thick layer of soil, one can better grasp the extent of a rabbit’s olfactory abilities.

Taste (gustatory perception)

Rabbits, like humans, can perceive sweet, sour, bitter, and salty flavors. They have a particularly high tolerance for bitterness, which explains why they prefer especially bitter plants (e.g., dandelions). With around 17,000 taste buds (humans: 8,000–9,000; dogs: 1,700), rabbits have roughly twice as many as humans. This also explains why, as dietary specialists, they can detect subtle differences in food and selectively choose what they eat.

Rabbits first examine everything through their sensitive sense of smell before deciding to take a test bite. If the food is not suitable, they may spit it out again. This makes them very difficult to poison.

Touch (tactile perception)

For close-range orientation, rabbits rely on their whiskers (vibrissae) located at the sides of the nose and above the eyes. They also possess tactile corpuscles, particularly at the ends of their limbs. Each side of the body has about 17–23 whiskers, each measuring 3–7 cm in length. Unlike fur, vibrissae are not shed during the molting cycle.

Whiskers help rabbits perceive things hidden from their eyes, and they rely heavily on them for orientation. With their vibrissae, rabbits can not only select food but also judge distances, feel the ground, and even sense vibrations in the air. This allows them to assess their immediate surroundings—for example, whether they can pass through an opening—and provides excellent orientation in burrows, shelters, and in darkness. The whiskers above the eyes help detect objects that might otherwise injure the eye.

When touched, the movement of a whisker is transmitted to the blood-filled capsule at its base, where a nerve conveys the stimulus to the brain.

Cutting off whiskers means amputating an entire sensory organ and significantly impairs the animal. Under no circumstances should whiskers be trimmed or shortened when clipping the fur.

In Rex rabbits, whiskers are often strongly curled, shortened, deformed, or even absent. The absence of whiskers is classified as a form of torture breeding (Qualzucht) in Germany, and such breeding practices are prohibited.

Rex rabbit without vibrissae.

Sources include (among others):

Boback, Alfred W.; Das Wildkaninchen: (Oryctolagus cuniculus (Linné, 1758); 2., unveränd. Aufl.; Nachdr. der 1. Aufl., Wittenberg Lutherstadt, Ziemsen, 1970; Hohenwarsleben; Westarp-Wiss.-Verl.-Ges.; 2004; (Die neue Brehm-Bücherei; 415)

Engelhard, W. von et al (2014): Physiologie der Haustiere. Enke-Verlag, Stuttgart

Gormezano, I. N. Schneiderman, E. Deaux, and I. Fuentes (1962): Nictitating Membrane: Classical Conditioning and Extinction in the Albino Rabbit Science 138:33 – 34 [http://www.psychology.uiowa.edu/Faculty/Freeman/Gormezano_62.pdf, Stand 10.11.2019]

Heffner, H. (1980): Hearing in Glires: Domestic rabbit, cotton rat, feral house mouse, and kangaroo rat. J. Acoust. Soc. Am. 1980, 68(6), S. 1584-1599.

Hughes, A. (1971): A Schematic Eye For The Rabbit, Vision Res. Vol. 12, pp. 123-138. Pergamon Press

Kraft, R. (1976): Vergleichende Verhaltensstudien an Wild- und Hauskaninchen. Universität Erlangen, 1976. Diss

Leicht, W. H. (1979): Tiere der offenen Kulturlandschaft. Feldhase, Wildkaninchen. Heidelberg, Quelle und Meyer

Niethammer, F, Krapp, J.(2003): Handbuch der Säugetiere Europas. Hasenartige. Wiesbaden : Akademischer Verlags-Gesellschaft, Bd. 3/2

Juliusson, B. et al (1994): Complementary cone fields of the rabbit retina, in Investigative Ophthalmology 8c Visual Science, March 1994, Vol. 35, No. 3 [http://www.iovs.org/content/35/3/811.full.pdf Stand 10.11.2019]

Leicht, W. (1979): Tiere der offenen Kulturlandschaft, Heidelberg, Quelle und Meyer; Teil 1, Feldhase, Wildkaninchen; Ethologie einheimischer Säugetiere, 1

Loeffler, K., & Gäbel, G. (2015): Anatomie und Physiologie der Haustiere (Vol. 13). UTB.

Nachtsheim; In: Nachtsheim, H. u. H. Stengel (1977): Vom Wildtier zum Haustier. 3. Aufl. Verlag Paul Parey, Berlin und Hamburg

Schleif, O. (2001): Ein Beitrag zur tiergerechten Haltung der Ratte anhand der Literatur. Diss, Tierärztl. Hochsch. Hannover

Schlingmann F.; De Rijk SHLM.: Pereboom WJ.; Remie R.: „Avoidance“ as a behavioural parameter in the determination of distress amongst albino and pigmented rats at various light intensities. Animal Technol. 1993a; 44(2), 87-95.

Schlolaut, W. (Hrsg) in Zusammenarbeit mit Lange, K.; Das große Buch vom Kaninchen; 3., erw. Aufl.; Frankfurt am Main; DLG-Verl., 2003; 488 S.

Nover, A. (1955): Untersuchungen über die Funktion der Tränendrüse beim Kaninchen, in Graefe’s Archive for Clinical and Experimental Ophthalmology , Volume 156, Number 2

Walde, I. (2008): Augenheilkunde: Lehrbuch und Atlas Hund, Katze, Kaninchen und Meerschweinchen, 3. Auflage, Stuttgart

Wiesner, E. und Ribbeck, R. (2000): Lexikon der Veterinärmedizin. Stuttgart : Enke im Hippokrates Verlag GmbH.

Can Rabbits Wear Clothes?

Rabbits are very sensitive animals. They are put under stress when they are attracted. In addition, they can be seriously injured if they get caught on the clothing or try to get free.

Do Pet Rabbits Like to Swim?

Yes, rabbits can swim! But they suffer when they are simply put into the water and are afraid of drowning. Who wants to fight for their lives for minutes without being able to stand or go to the shore? Nobody! Neither does your rabbit!
Please pass on this information! Too often you see rabbits swimming on Instagram.
The only exception can be a medical indication.

If your rabbit has soiled bottoms, you can clean a rabbit’s bottom by gently holding it over a bowl or sink and wetting and washing its dirty areas.

Don´t bathe your rabbit!

Unless your rabbit has a disease, it does NOT need to be bathed. If your rabbit has soiled bottoms, you can clean a rabbit’s bottom by gently holding it over a bowl or sink and wetting and washing its dirty areas.
Rabbits are like cats, they groom themselves to stay clean. Never immerse them in water! Rabbits can easily die from shock and hypothermia, they dry out slowly and it can lead to bladder infections, pneumonia and other serious illnesses. The ordeal of bathing puts them under extreme stress. They can injure themselves when slipping or kicking. The rabbit in this well-known internet picture, supposedly relaxed in the water, has been put into a trance. This is a state in which the rabbit goes into temporary paralysis, trancing is a reaction from the wild. If a rabbit is attacked but has no means of escape, it will play dead. This rabbit is incapable of action and is afraid for its life!
Share and spread the word!

New RHDv-2 Variant in France

In the past, RHD mutated to such an extent that the vaccines no longer worked against it and new vaccines were developed. This variant was called RHDv-2 and has been successfully vaccinated for several years.

In the north of France and other parts of Europe, a particularly contagious variant of RHDv-2 has appeared in recent months, against which the RHD2 vaccine (Eravac, Filavac, Nobivac Myxo-RHD PLUS) does not seem to be sufficiently effective. Unfortunately, epidemics do not respect national borders. The French Agence nationale du médicament vétérinaire (ANMV) has therefore approved the development of an adapted vaccine (ATU Filavac VHD Var K) that is effective against this variant. So far, this vaccine may only be vaccinated if it can be proven that the regular RHD2 vaccine is not effective.

Weiterlesen